I have had no success in uploading photographs to the blog so it might be a while until you see some of the magnificent sights I've encountered here in Syria. But I can speak a little of my experiences along the way. I can only conclude that a sight can speak to you, in a funny way. As we arrived at the famous Crac de Chevaliers castle, which author Paul Theroux described as "the epitome of childhood fantasies" and T.E. Lawrence called "the finest castle in the world" (thank you Lonely Planet Guide for providing these quotations), it was cold and rainy. The castle was magnificent, but it was to me empty and soul-less. I wandered around for a couple hours, trying to take in the beauty of the site and imagine it as it was in the 12th century, when the Crusader knights built and held the fortress against Islamic armies. But I simply couldn't imagine it. Despite its preservation, the castle was an empty shell of its former self to which I felt no affinity.
However, when we moved on to the magnificent Dead City of Serjilla, I found myself engaging with the environment. Maybe it was the magnificent evening sky or the wildness of the surrounding countryside, I just wanted to take it all in. It may have been because it was untouched - a tavern and small church are at the center of the town remain perfectly preserved with remnants of private houses and villas serving as a backdrop. The reddish sandstone played with the light of the sunset, making it all a bit spooky. I ran around, discovering hidden treasures in the rubble of stones, wondering what sort of people lived here over fifteen centuries ago. It was a perfect ghost town, and a reminder of Halloween festivities going on at home that I am sad to have missed.
However, after two days of exploration through Syria, we arrived at the wondrous ancient ruins of Palmyra, the countries most famous site, and I was just plain unenthusiastic. I was tired of broken pillars, of half standing collonades, decrepit Temples, and restored monumental arches. Simply, I was "ruin-ed," and after a half-hearted attempt at catching the beauty of the place by taking excessive photographs I was ready to ship out to the nearest city and return to modernity. I didn't last an hour.
Once we arrived in Damascus on Halloween, despite my urgings, no one was eager to dress up. I was the only American in the hostel, which didn't help. And on top of that, none of us had much to work with. I'm enjoying the company of travelers in Syria, but they are of a different breed than those in Turkey. The inherent fear of the Middle East has swayed many travelers in other directions, and it is only those with determination and a keen interest who are eager to make their way through this wonderful country. It is a far cry from the fun-loving, sun-seeking, hippy travelers I encountered in Turkey, but it does make the travel experience rather different. Though I enjoy the company I've met, I'm finding I need my space more here. I tend to run away to seek solitude and my journal at times. I often get distressed when I feel the urge to spend time alone, as though I'll be missing out if I'm not out there, interacting and getting to know new and interesting people. But there is a reason why I'm here, and I'm alone. For me its been an important way of developing some self-awareness. Looking at my priorities and learning to trust my instincts.
Alex and Annabel, two English girls who made serious plans to spend several months in Damascus for an intensive Arabic course followed by working fin the Middle East, arrived in the city and promptly changed their plans. They decided that rather than staying on here, they would rather carry on traveling. This is a big change for them. But they are following their hearts and their intuition. I'm learning more than anything else to do the same. Here, I am able to trust myself more than ever before. So I didn't really like Palmyra, despite its fame and historical significance. It doesn't matter! I didn't want to be there, so I left. I have more on this subject, particularly regarding Damascus, that I'll post soon. To make a long story short, this city, despite it's history and importance, really doesn't have much going for it. I'm out of here on the first bus to Amman, Jordan tomorrow.